Ravenna’s “Condominio Kitchen”: A Culinary Journey Through Time

Our food correspondent, Martanon, never misses a delicious opportunity. This time, she explored the “Cucina del Condominio” in Ravenna, sharing an unforgettable experience. Nestled on the ground floor of a building in a bustling, central Ravenna location, the restaurant is a testament to chef Matteo Salbaroli’s vision. Assisted by his dedicated colleague Daniela, Matteo has crafted a space that seamlessly blends vintage charm with modern aesthetics. The restaurant’s design evokes the warmth and nostalgia of a grandmother’s kitchen and traditional Sunday lunches. This feeling is meticulously reflected not just in the ambiance, but also in the food, emphasizing fresh pasta made by skilled sfogline (pasta makers) who will soon have their own dedicated workshop.

The “once upon a time” atmosphere is palpable: antique cupboards, vintage scales, typewriters, old telephones, a coat rack fashioned from vintage cellar keys, and robust, history-rich tables combine with enchanting modern tables, like the one reserved for our correspondent, repurposed from an antique sewing machine. The tables are deliberately unadorned, their age proudly displayed, topped only with charming cartoon-illustrated paper placemats depicting condominium life, created by a resident of the building above. A harmonious balance is achieved through clever lighting, large windows and a neutral color palette accented by colorful decorative plates – their fascinating story to be revealed later. This vintage décor captivates younger generations while providing older patrons with a comforting trip down memory lane. The result is a youthful yet elegant setting.

Intrigued by the unique plates on the walls, Martanon learns about Matteo’s “Circuito del Buon Ricordo” (Good Memory Circuit). These hand-painted ceramic plates are gifted to diners as a memento of their culinary experience, a testament to the restaurant’s focus on local and regional dishes. Matteo’s collection numbers over 40 pieces, reflecting his commitment to food’s cultural significance.

The counter is a visual masterpiece, showcasing trays of fresh pasta – cappelletti, passatelli, tagliatelle, and more – arranged like precious jewels. The restaurant also offers takeout, with the pasta packaged in elegant containers that resemble boxes of chocolates. A unique feature is the option to purchase homemade broth in bottles, a convenient solution for busy individuals.

Matteo, a quiet yet insightful chef, opens a bottle of Biancobagnolo Albana secco, and they toast as the meal begins with a mouthwatering appetizer of salami crostini. This is followed by tender, melt-in-your-mouth polpette di lesso (boiled meat meatballs) in a creamy, flavorful blue cheese sauce. A reimagining of a traditional peasant dish, this gluten-free version uses rice flour instead of breadcrumbs, showcasing a creative approach to familiar flavors.

Next, Matteo and Daniela present a dish from their rotating menu (updated every two to three months): Tomino cheese with herb-infused bread served on braised radicchio with sun-dried tomatoes. This dish, invented by Matteo, evokes his early days in mountain restaurants, and transforms a simple dish into something truly special. The delicate breading contrasts beautifully with the creamy cheese, the bitter radicchio, and the sweetness of the tomatoes, a well-balanced fusion of flavors.

The meal culminates with the “imperatore ravennate” (Ravenna’s Emperor): cappelletti in broth. This dish alone, Martanon believes, deserves a prestigious culinary award. Served in a vintage aluminum bowl, the broth’s vibrant orange hue and rich aroma are captivating. The broth, seasoned perfectly, includes vegetables, capon, beef, potatoes, and tomatoes, creating an exquisite, intensely flavorful base. The cappelletti, with their generous filling of Parmigiano-Reggiano, lemon zest, and nutmeg, are a testament to both the chef’s skill and the sfogline’s artistry.

A visit to the Cucina del Condominio is highly recommended for an unforgettable culinary experience. 25.09.2019 Marta Cordisco Webpage Subscribe to our newsletter for recipes, events, and announcements!