Agriturismo Corte San Ruffillo: Un’Oasi di Gusto nell’Appennino Romagnolo

Nestled near the Casentinesi Forests National Park and bordering Tuscany, in the charming town of Dovadola (FC), lies Corte San Ruffillo—an exclusive agriturismo where time seems to slow, and nature reigns supreme. This enchanting estate, a meticulously restored 18th-century complex, boasts expansive, lovingly cultivated fields and responsibly raised livestock, reflecting a deep respect for seasonal rhythms. Our culinary correspondents recently visited Corte San Ruffillo’s acclaimed restaurant, and their experience is truly captivating. Situated just beyond Dovadola, after a picturesque drive winding through the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, the agriturismo’s imposing stone façade commands attention, even in winter. The restaurant’s serene ambiance, enveloped by nature’s quiet embrace, is utterly captivating. The building’s history stretches far back, though its present form dates to the early 19th century. Inside, a collection of inviting rooms provides a tranquil setting for dining. Corte San Ruffillo encompasses a restaurant, guest rooms, and a certified organic farm. Locally sourced ingredients, cultivated in the hills between Dovadola and Rocca San Casciano, undergo meticulous processing to guarantee the highest quality. The farm produces an array of delectable products, including cured meats, olive oil, flour, and preserves, many of which feature prominently on the restaurant’s menu. Our culinary journey began with an exquisite entrée: manfrigoli, a traditional Romagnola egg pasta, served in a hearty ribollita with Tuscan kale and cannellini beans. This was paired flawlessly with a glass of Fritz, an ancestrally-produced Chardonnay, its delicate yet persistent effervescence creating a perfect harmony with the ribollita’s robust flavors. The agriturismo’s 42 hectares are dedicated to viticulture; among the white varieties are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Albana, and Riesling, while the red varietals include Cabernet, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Next, we savored a selection of Corte San Ruffillo’s signature Mora Romagnola cured meats, accompanied by homemade piadina and the agriturismo’s own chutney. This exceptional charcuterie board featured fiocco, coppa, lombetto, pancetta, and salami, each showcasing meticulous preparation and an unwavering commitment to quality. The pigs are raised locally in the Romagnola hills and undergo a rigorous aging process, with some cuts resting in a dedicated stone cellar for up to 30 months, a testament to the dedication to artisanal production. The results were truly extraordinary; the pancetta melted in the mouth, the salami boasted a perfect balance of lean and fat with finely dispersed lard, while the fiocco and lombetto were exceptional with the piadina and sweet and spicy pumpkin and leek chutney. The next course featured a selection of first courses. A sip of Sangiovese Superiore 2017, bursting with fragrant red fruits and a hint of spice, preceded a steaming bowl of cappelletti in pheasant broth. The broth itself was remarkable, its depth of flavor and aroma evoking the essence of winter and the Apennine culinary tradition, perfectly complementing the rich meat-filled cappelletti. Following this classic dish, we delighted in the more inventive yet still distinctly Romagnola gnocchetti di zucca e patate (pumpkin and potato gnocchi) with shallot pesto and Corte San Ruffillo lardo. These delectable gnocchi, nestled on a bed of shallot pesto and topped with fragrant lardo, offered a harmonious blend of sweet pumpkin and shallot, complemented by the rich lardo and a touch of rosemary. A Sangiovese Superiore Riserva 2015, with its garnet hues and notes of dried fruit and spice, ushered in the evening’s main course: a perfectly executed pigeon with Port wine sauce, crostini topped with pigeon livers, and seasonal vegetables. This dish was a culinary masterpiece, a harmonious composition of textures and flavors, where each element played its part in a symphony of taste. The pigeon, tender and flavorful, was enhanced by the caramelized Port wine sauce, its subtle bitterness perfectly balancing the rich meat. The seasonal vegetables—cauliflower, Romanesco broccoli, and peppers—were crisp and sweet, and the creamy potato purée added a velvety touch. The crostini, simple yet brilliant, embodied the essence of Tuscan tradition, the crisp, understated bread a perfect foil for the rich, flavorful liver. This intoxicating blend of flavors led to a pre-dessert sorbet of pear with a salted crunch, setting the stage for the evening’s grand finale: a “my way” panna cotta with cooked pears, balsamic vinegar, peaty whiskey, and a touch of Assam pepper. This dessert was not merely a sweet treat but a narrative of passion for nature, territory, and respect for raw materials, infused with an exotic touch. This creation from Corte San Ruffillo combined the creamy sweetness of homemade panna cotta, caramelized pear, the sharp tang of balsamic vinegar, crunchy almond slivers, the warmth of peaty whiskey, and the final balsamic note of Assam pepper, weaving a tapestry of intense and complex flavors. As our culinary journey concluded, we felt an overwhelming sense of enchantment. The setting was magical, the food truly exceptional, creating an unforgettable experience. Corte San Ruffillo in Dovadola (FC) is a haven of relaxation and exquisite cuisine, a highly recommended agriturismo for those seeking an escape from city life and a celebration of the authentic flavors of Romagna. 12/05/2019 Giulia Valentini